For many years I had this picture of Cuba in my head: a relaxed culture with Buena Vista Social Club-type of musicians at almost every street corner, big old American cars beautifully preserved and people lifting aromatic cigars to their lips.
The first thing to notice about landing at the Havana Jose Marti airport: it was like a small-town airport in Malaysia in the 1980s. The female customs officers were a surprising sight in their khaki miniskirts and black patterned stockings. Male officers had a couple of cute spaniels as sniffer dogs.