Normally cool and laid-back, Samuel Nangwena was visibly thrilled. But our guide had to dial back his excitement. It was rather late, almost 10pm. Our group was finally about to rest in our chalets at Okaukuejo Resort in the middle of Namibia’s Etosha National Park.

We were bone-tired after being on the move for more than half a day, covering 600km of tarred, gravel and coastal salt roads in 4x4 vehicles. But what Nangwena told us was the sort of thing that made sleep unimportant.